Prakticheckiy kurs geterogennogo kataliza(Ru) by Setterfild Ch.

By Setterfild Ch.

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Various representations have been proposed in the past for s or (s1 ). All of them show the wave frequency dependent nature of the directional spreading function D. For example, Krylov et al. 8/ω∗ . 8 and ω∗ = ωω¯ . Hence, the low-frequency components (ω ω ¯ ) possess ω∗ very narrow directional spreading, concentrated around main direction, Θ0 , while the high-frequency components (ω > ω ¯ ) are spread in a wider directional band. 9), the directional spreading function D ∼ cos2 Θ. In most of the experiments, the characteristic asymmetry in frequency dependence of parameter s was observed.

5. Discrepancies between experiments and theory are less than 20%. 2 Numerical modelling of steep wave evolution In computational studies, steep waves are usually formed by applying a point pressure disturbance at the wave surface or are obtained from sufficiently energetic initial conditions. Longuet–Higgins and Cokelet (1976) in their pioneer study developed a new method for following the time-history of spaceperiodic irrotational, nonlinear and unsteady free surface waves. 4 Numerical modelling of steep waves and their evolution to breaking 25 of velocity at each time step.

18) in which ωc = nωp and n is usually taken as n > 3. , 1973). 09 when ω ≥ ωp . 21) r = exp − in which σ0 = The Phillips constant β and peak frequency ωp are given by Hasselmann et al. 2: Comparison of the Pierson–Moskowitz and the JONSWAP spectra: (a) fetch limited conditions and (b) fully developed sea. 33 . 23) The Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum can be obtained as a special case of the JONSWAP spectrum when the peak enhancement factor γ is equal to 1. 2 the Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum and the JONSWAP spectrum are compared for two different regimes.

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